I have the Rosewill PS being delivered today.  Wish me luck!

 You have a little challenge ahead. I looked at the changes for the daughterbaord power hook up. It looks like it's just a color to color soldering job. I'm not sure how much work it is to take apart the Rosewill to do it, so I will wish you luck. keep us posted.

I ordered an ATX extension cable as well. So, all I have to do is splice in the daughterboard cable color for color. Shouldnt take more than 15 minutes.  I will know as soon as UPS arrives.

The Rosewill and ATX extension works like a charm!  Thanks guys!

 I agree recently my power supply on my z555 went out again for the third time and I decided to do use the following to replace it:

• Rosewill SL-300TFX 300W TFX12V Power Supply - OEM :
  
• http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182207
• Silverstone 6" ATX extension cable kit Model PP04 - Retail
• http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162006

So it doesn't fit perfectly but I just used some double sided tape to hold it down and it is smaller then the stock power supply which is good.  The extension cable is used so you can connect to the daughter board to do this follow the following steps

1. Cut the daughter board connector off your original power supply with as much cable as possible (aka close to the power supply)
2. Connect the daughter board cable the the ATX extension (bigger cable) with the following connections 
1. Purple to Purple
2. Grey to Grey
   
3. Yellow to any Yellow
4. Red to any Red (not orange)
5. Black's to any Black's

I also needed to remove the SATA connector off the original power supply because it is an L connector and the Rosewill only has straight connectors which do not fit. Again this was a straight color splice. 

 That raps it up and now the z555 is running again for about $40 instead of $100-$300 for a new stock power supply that will just break again.  

 bing

 

 

 It looks like I may be into a PS change after all, my z540 is doing frequent reboots. Sometimes it won't boot, won't allow a bios entry with F1 key, it just hangs on the bios gui at start up. Can anyone confirm this may be  a PS failure in progress?

I replaced my PS and followed your post to the letter. When I power it up the fans start cranking, the HD spins up and the CD powers up but the the board does not power up. No beep, no BIOS, nothing. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, JOSH

jch1972

I replaced my PS and followed your post to the letter. When I power it up the fans start cranking, the HD spins up and the CD powers up but the the board does not power up. No beep, no BIOS, nothing. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, JOSH

 

Is this the same issue that caused you to change out the power supply in the first place?

Unless you made an error when wiring up the new PS or the new one has an issue, then the method you used should work. 

 

Have you tried using a standard power supply,  ignoring the additional hook up required for the Z series? That should tell you whether or nor your Mboard is functional.

I saw a MB go on ebay recently, it was cheep. 

I have a HP Z565 with PS trouble. At first I took it (ps) apart and put some lube in the fan bearing which worked for a few months. Then the fan would stall during re-boot so I would manually start it with a probe during spin up. Now that is not working. Has anybody had similar experience? The PS seemed to work ok for many months if cooled. I think that perhaps I could replace the fan and get some more life out of this MCE PC.

Here is the only supplier site I could find for the fan:

 http://www.activecomponents.com/Catalog-Fans_441.aspx?searchTerms=AD0812HS-C76&SortBy=StockDesc

 

They have a $50.00 AU (Australian currency?) minimum so I would need to buy 3 or more. Anybody wish coop order to buy 1 (or more?) from me?

 

I have been hesitant to modify the PC with a non OEM PS for fan noise concerns.

Hi there,

I just wanted to add that I have made the Rosewill power supply replacement and used the ATX extension cord method as well.  Bing's post (which I found using Bing) is exactly correct.  I thought I would just add a couple tidbits.

There is another connector on the stock HP power supply labeled "P7".  The Rosewill does not have this lead coming out of it, but after a bit of research, it appears that the P7 connector is to control the power supply fan.  The Rosewill supply doesn't need this.  Omitting it does no harm.

On my first replacement power supply (the one from Hipro), the P7 connector was too short, so I spliced in some wire to make it work.  That Hipro power supply lasted about 8 months.  My stock HP supply lasted 5 years or so.  I think this may be some sort of capacitor issue or something.  My stock one blew after an odd power event at home.  My UPS freaked out and the power supply died.  My friend had his second power supply blow when a contractor flipped a breaker from off to on.  This replacement Hipro of mine blew for, um... no reason?  They're on a surge protector, behind a UPS, etc.  There's no good reason for it to blow out.

I would say that if you have a bad power supply, going with the Hipro is probably flushing (a lot of) money down the toilet.

 

OK, so here are some details in case someone is left wondering what it's like or how to do this... everything in the forum is accurate - it all fits, the daugterboard connector (P6) can be soldered in just like others say here.

I chose to carefully slice little segments of the insulation out of the correct 7 wires in the ATX extension cord, then solder each of the daugherboard connector's wires in, and then wrap each solder joint them snugly with electricians tape.  Another way to do it would be to get some 18 or 20 gauge wire "taps" or "splicers" from Radio Shack that let you clip the daughterboard's connector wires in place without soldering.  I've used them before and they work just fine.  However, they do add bulk to the case, so it's up to you.  The ATX extension wires are pretty stuff and need some careful consideration so that your case will fit back together.

Note that the ATX cable insulation slicing takes quite a bit of time and patience.  Using those wire taps / splicers, you could be up in about 10 minutes without breaking a sweat.

My new Rosewill SATA power connector for the hard drive appeared to work OK, but it is certainly cramped.  Soldering the L connector into place as Bing suggests is probably a good idea.  I discovered that the longer SATA power cable on the Rosewill worked acceptably, while the shorter, bulkier SATA cable did not.

Another item to note is that the Rosewill power supply is significantly smaller than the stock power supply.  Also, the instruction "manual" for the Rosewill supply suggests that it has 2 fans in it (also a manual fan speed knob and separate power switch).  I'm not sure any of that is true.  However, if you put the Rosewill power supply on its side, the fan will draw air from the CPU heatsink area, and eject it out the back.  However, that might conflict with the airflow in the case if you've reversed your CPU fan (and you should make sure your CPU fan pushes are OUT the top of the case, not IN - this is the perfect time to reverse that CPU fan if it's blowing the wrong direction - which you won't know until you get your power supply running again...).

 

[EDIT and CORRECTION:

The above paragraph is incorrect.  I was reading their "manual" and assumed it was correct.  The single fan, in fact, blows air inside the case, and draws air from the outside (where the plug is).  So it will blow air toward the CPU when it's on it's side.  Then the CPU fan would blow it out the top of the case I guess.

 And I'm going to chain some zip ties together and secure the power supply to the side of the case.

]

There is a significant gap around the power supply area and the back of the case.  Also, the power supply doesn't really have a secure resting place in the case (yet).  I have to look into that part.

Anyhow, it all works and fired right up (right when I plugged in the power cord, so don't be surprised).  The power supply is running cool and the CPU fan isn't stressing out as much as it was before for some reason (even when watching FLV video).  I'm also running an upgraded CPU (the P4 640 2.4GHz).  SpeedFan reports normal temps, or below the usual temps right now.

Hope that helps someone...

TTFN
Gregg

nlshipp

Here are a couple pictures of the Seasonic case in the HP540.  I had taken out the media drive bay a long time back so I don't know if the new supply will interfere with it.  As you can see from the pictures, there's at least an inch of clearance between the fan and the top of the case, so airflow doesn't seem to be a problem.  If it does, there's enough room to mount the PSU on its side so that there's a straight path from the inside of the case to the PSU fan.

 Neil.

 

 

 

I ended up buying the seasonic PSU(I like seasonic and the picture looks like a good fix) after I confirmed that my Z540 did in fact have a broken power supply. I would really like to avoid doing any soldering because I dont want to ruin anything so I was wondering if there was any way around this. I guess the point of it is just so that your infared and front display get power right? Thanks.

You can use an aftermarket replacement power supply with the HP machine, but without splicing in the connector for the front circuit board, the IR receiver, front display, and RF keyboard receiver won't work.

For those of you that spliced the ATX extension cable to the original 7 pin cable, how did you connect the wires up? Did you solder it or what (I'm very new to this kind of stuff)?

I bought the ATX extension cable listed in this thread, stripped a small section of insulation from one of each color wire in the middle of that cable.
I clipped the 7 pin connector cord off the old power supply so that it was nice and long, and stripped the ends of each wire.

I wrapped one of the stripped ends of the wires on the connector around one of the ATX extension wires that I stripped (matching the colors) so that it would stay put during the soldering part. Clipping the 2 wires together with a binder clip would be smart, but I'm not so much that way.

Then I used a medium or low power soldering iron to heat the bare part of the wires that are wrapped together and touched the solder to the wires (not the iron) until it seemed to make a nice bond.

If you hold the soldering iron on there too long, the insulation on the wires will start to smoke and turn black. So, remove the soldering iron if you start to see that. The solder will smoke, which is OK. Don't breathe deeply though.

Then I wrapped the bare, newly soldered junctions with short slices of electrical tape (I cut the tape in half so it's narrower). Always stretch electrical tape as you wind it around so it makes a better bond (I never knew it stretched at first).

Someone might have a better way, and since this is the Internet, no one will be shy enough to withhold it from you!
You can't really do heat shrink tubing over the soldering the way I did it (unless you can slice heat shrink tubing and wrap it, but I didn't think you could do that).

You could do this in 2 minutes with "wire splicers" but they do take up more space. They work well though.

TTFN Gregg

so which one is the winner out of the 2? The Seasonic or the Rosewill.

 My z540 just died and i want to order up.

 

I dont use my expansion bay so i could remove it although i did find a lacie external drive that will slide right into this bay so id like to keep it if possible. The seasonic looks like it might clear it just fine from the looks of it by eyeballing it.

Can someone that is done the Rosewill PS please post some pics here so we can see what that finished product looks like?

 

The rosewill is $24.99

The Seasonic is $36

the extension cables are $10

 is the seasonic worth the extra money or is it just personal preference? Ill spend the extra if there is an advantage but would rather not if there is no point.

 Id like to know how far the fan is away from the top of the case on the rosewill unit. Pics would help.

 

Any thoughts?